The quick truth: most “new curtain smell” fades, but a few situations deserve extra caution
It’s pretty common for blackout curtains to smell right out of the package.
That “plastic-y,” “chemical,” or “new factory” odor is often from materials and finishes slowly releasing into the air.
But if the smell is sharp enough to burn your eyes/throat, triggers headaches/nausea, or gets worse in a small, closed bedroom, treat it as more than just “annoying” and focus on reducing exposure first.
If it smells musty like a damp basement, that’s a different problem (moisture/mildew) and needs a different fix.
30-second check: which situation are you in?
Likely normal off-gassing (usually improves):
- Smells like new plastic/coating/packaging
- Noticeably better with fresh air
- Clearly less intense after a few days
More reason to act fast (and consider returning):
- Smell is overwhelming even with windows open
- Eye/nose/throat irritation, coughing, headaches, or dizziness
- Two weeks later it still hasn’t improved much
- It’s going in a bedroom, nursery, or a small room with limited ventilation
More likely mildew/moisture:
- Smells musty or sour
- Worse near the window side
- Visible spots, dampness, or a “wet fabric” feel
What to do right now: reduce exposure before you troubleshoot chemistry
Your first goal is distance and fresh air.
Move the curtains to the best-ventilated area you have (a covered porch, garage, laundry area, or a room you don’t sleep in).
If they must go in the bedroom, keep them away from your bed for the first couple of days and ventilate as much as you can.
A 10-minute action list (in a good order) — don’t start by masking the smell
1) Open everything up.
Unwrap completely and unfold every layer so trapped odor isn’t concentrated in the folds.
2) Create cross-ventilation.
Two open windows (or a window + a door) usually works better than cracking one window.
3) Keep it cool at first.
Avoid blasting them with heat or putting them in direct hot sun immediately, because warmth can make the smell spike short-term.
4) Wash only if the care label allows it.
A proper wash can remove some surface residues, but don’t guess—follow the tag.
5) Use neutral odor control if needed.
Activated carbon (in a purifier or bags nearby) is generally more practical than air fresheners.
6) If it’s still intense, prioritize your comfort.
Return/exchange is a valid option—especially for a bedroom or nursery.
100% Blackout
Better sleep
Noise Reducing
Energy SavingIf it’s a musty smell: treat it like a moisture problem, not a “new product” issue
Musty odor often means the fabric stayed damp at some point (shipping container, warehouse, a humid apartment, or condensation by the window).
Check the window area for condensation, leaks, or a damp sill, because the smell can come back if the moisture source remains.
If the curtains are washable, wash and dry them thoroughly.
If they aren’t washable or you see spotting, returning them is often the simplest path.
Why blackout curtains smell more than regular curtains
With sheer or standard curtains, you’re mostly dealing with fabric.
With blackout curtains, you’re often dealing with an added blackout layer—a coating, laminated backing, or bonded lining that helps block light.
That extra layer can carry more manufacturing residues and additives than plain fabric, which can translate into a stronger “new materials” odor.
Why it smells worse when the sun hits it or the heat turns on
If you’ve ever noticed the odor gets stronger in the afternoon sun, you’re not imagining it.
Warmer temperatures can make many materials release odors faster, so the smell can spike even as the curtain is “airing out.”
This is also why a room with closed windows + HVAC running can feel worse than a breezy living room.
Smell doesn’t equal danger — but it also isn’t meaningless
A strong odor tells you something is being released, but it doesn’t tell you exactly what it is or at what level.
Some compounds can be noticeable at very low levels, and others might not smell like much at all.
So treat odor as a practical signal: it tells you when to ventilate, when to keep it out of bedrooms, and when returning is the smart move.
Who should pay closer attention
If it’s going into a nursery, it’s worth being extra conservative—babies spend a lot of time indoors, close to fabrics.
If someone in the home has asthma, allergies, chronic sinus issues, or chemical sensitivities, don’t force it—choose gentler materials and keep new items out of sleeping spaces.
If you live in a small apartment, have single-pane windows with condensation, or keep windows closed due to smoke/pollen/weather, odors can build up more easily.
How to shop smarter: don’t chase “non-toxic” slogans—look for something checkable
Marketing terms like “eco,” “green,” or “odor-free” can be vague.
A more reliable approach is: simpler construction + clearer disclosures + credible third-party programs.
Think of this as reducing uncertainty, not finding a mythical “perfect” product.
Materials and construction tips if you’re smell-sensitive
If odor is your top priority, consider curtains that block light through weave density or layered fabric rather than a thick rubbery backing.
If you need a backed blackout for maximum darkness, buy from a brand that clearly states what the backing is and offers real certification/testing details.
As a gut check, the more a curtain feels like a stiff “sheet” on the back, the more likely you’re dealing with a substantial coating or laminated layer.
Certifications
OEKO-TEX® Standard 100 is commonly used for textiles and focuses on limits for certain substances.
GREENGUARD (often “GREENGUARD Gold”) and programs based on indoor-air-style testing are more directly related to emissions from products into indoor air.
No label can promise “zero smell for everyone,” but certifications can be useful filters when you’re trying to avoid the worst offenders.
Common misconceptions (quick corrections)
“If I can’t smell anything, it’s definitely safe.”
Not always—some emissions are low-odor, so it’s smarter to rely on ventilation and credible testing/labels rather than your nose alone.
“Musty smell will go away if I just air it out.”
Musty odor usually points to moisture; if the damp source isn’t addressed, the smell can return even after airing.
“Heat and sun are always the fastest fix.”
Warmth can speed up the “airing out” process, but it can also make the smell spike—use controlled ventilation first, then gentle warmth if needed.
“I’ll just spray something to cover it.”
Masking adds more irritants to indoor air; fresh air and time are usually the better solution—especially for bedrooms.
Two mini checklists: before you buy, and the 72-hour checkpoint
Before you buy (3 minutes):
- Decide what matters most: maximum darkness or lower odor/emissions
- Prefer simpler construction and clearer material disclosures (especially for bedrooms)
- Look for credible third-party programs when possible, not just “eco” marketing language
72-hour checkpoint (keep vs. return):
- Good sign: the smell is clearly weaker day by day, and it doesn’t trigger irritation with normal ventilation.
- Proceed with caution: it’s improving, but still noticeable—keep it out of sleeping spaces a bit longer and continue airing out.
- Consider returning/exchanging: the odor is still strong, causes symptoms, or hasn’t improved much after about two weeks—especially if it’s for a bedroom or nursery.
If it’s for a bedroom or nursery:
- Air it out in a non-sleeping space first whenever possible.
- Only move it into the room once the smell is clearly fading.
- Keep ventilation higher than usual for the first few nights.
