Blackout curtains are easy to live with and weirdly easy to ruin—because the fabric isn’t the fragile part. The risk is the blackout layer on the back (or the separate lining), which can crack, peel, bubble, or turn stiff if you wash and dry it like a normal curtain.
If you’re here because you’re trying to figure out how to wash blackout curtains without wrecking that backing, this guide gives you the safest order of operations first, then clear instructions for machine washing, hand washing, and when to stop and call a dry cleaner.
Quick Answer: How to Wash Blackout Curtains Safely
If you can’t find the care label or you’re not sure what kind of blackout lining you have, don’t start with a full wash. Start with the lowest-risk clean that fixes most issues.
- Vacuum them while they’re still hanging (use a brush attachment).
- Spot-clean stains with cool water + a tiny bit of mild detergent.
- Air dry only (fans + open windows beat heat and tumbling when you’re unsure).
This approach avoids the two biggest lining killers: high heat and hard agitation. It also matches what mainstream laundry guidance recommends for curtains when you’re trying to be gentle.
If that doesn’t get them clean enough, move to Step 1 and choose a method based on the label.
Step 1: Read the Care Label and Turn It Into a Simple Plan
The care label is the only instruction that’s actually specific to your curtains—and blackout products vary a lot by brand and construction.
Here’s the plain-English translation of common directions:
- “Machine wash cold, gentle/delicate” → You can wash, but you need low stress (cold + gentle + mild detergent).
- “Do not tumble dry” → Plan to air dry, even if it feels sturdy. (Some blackout curtains specifically forbid the dryer.)
- “Dry clean only” → Don’t argue with it; water + agitation can warp linings or shrink unevenly.
- “Spot clean only” → Treat it like a coated/structured product and avoid soaking and spin cycles.
If the tag is missing, assume the safest path: vacuum + spot clean + air dry (or dry clean if they’re heavily lined).
Step 2: Identify What Kind of Blackout You Have (Because the Rules Change)
“Blackout” isn’t one material—it’s a function. Two curtains can block the same amount of light and still need totally different care.
Fabric-only “triple-weave” blackout
These feel like thick fabric front and back with no rubbery coating. They’re usually the most forgiving if the label says washable.
Coated or foam-backed blackout
The back looks/feels like a smooth coating (often white or off-white). This is the type most likely to stick to itself, peel, or shred if handled badly when wet.
Sewn-in lining (blackout/thermal lining attached)
These are heavier and more structured. The problem here is often uneven shrinkage or puckering at seams, not just the lining surface.
100% Blackout
Better sleep
Noise Reducing
Energy SavingIf the back feels coated, treat it like it’s fragile unless the label clearly says otherwise.
Step 3: Prep Work That Prevents Damage
This is the difference between “they cleaned up great” and “why does the back look cracked now?”
Remove all hardware
Take off rings, hooks, pins, and clips. Hardware snags fabric and can scrape a coating in the wash.
Get dust out before adding water
Curtains trap dust, pet hair, and pollen. If you wash without removing it first, you’re basically making dirty slurry and rubbing it into the fabric. Regular vacuuming between washes is widely recommended.
Use a mesh laundry bag (or a pillowcase hack)
If the label allows machine washing, a mesh bag reduces twisting and friction—exactly what you want for linings and stitching.
Method 1: Machine Washing Instructions
Only use this method if your care label allows machine washing.
1) Use cold water + the gentlest cycle
Cold + gentle is the default best practice for curtains, and it lowers the odds of shrinkage and lining stress.
2) Use mild detergent and less than you think
Heavy detergent can leave residue in thick fabrics and linings, which makes curtains feel stiff and attracts dirt faster.
3) Wash curtains alone
No jeans, towels, or anything with zippers. You want minimal abrasion.
4) Keep spin under control
If your washer lets you reduce spin speed, do it. High spin creases and stresses backing layers.
5) Consider an extra rinse
Thick curtains hold soap. A cleaner rinse is worth the extra few minutes.
Real-world reality check: even within “blackout curtains,” care can differ by product. For example, IKEA’s MAJGULL room-darkening/blackout curtains specify cold washing but explicitly say do not tumble dry and list a maximum shrinkage expectation.
Other retail blackout panels may allow low tumble dry—so the label wins every time.
Method 2: Hand Washing Blackout Curtains
This is the safest “full clean” method when you’re nervous about the lining but still need more than spot cleaning.
1) Fill a tub with cool water + a small amount of mild detergent
You’re not stripping grease; you’re lifting dust and everyday grime.
2) Swish gently—don’t scrub
Scrubbing is what beats up coatings and stresses stitched linings.
3) Rinse thoroughly
Drain and refill with clean water until suds are gone.
4) Remove water by pressing, not wringing
Wringing creates hard creases and can crack delicate backings.
Spot-Cleaning Stains Without Scrubbing the Backing Off
Spot cleaning is where most people get impatient and do damage.
- Use a soft cloth, cool water, and a tiny bit of mild detergent.
- Dab and lift. Don’t grind the stain in.
- Keep water minimal on coated backings.
Coated blackout materials can be sensitive to rubbing and certain chemicals, so gentleness matters more than “power.”
When to Dry Clean (or Stop and Stay With Spot Cleaning)
If the label says dry clean only, take it seriously. Heavy linings and delicate fabrics can distort in water, and once the shape is off, it rarely comes back.
Dry cleaning is also the smarter move when:
- The backing feels coated/foam-like and you can’t confirm washability.
- The curtains are heavily structured, pleated, or tailored to kiss the floor.
- You’ve had past shrinkage nightmares and don’t want round two.
Drying: The Part That Ruins Linings
If washing is step one, drying is where the real damage happens.
Air drying is the safest default
A lot of blackout and room-darkening curtains either forbid the dryer or become risky in heat. IKEA explicitly says do not tumble dry for MAJGULL, and similar “no dryer” guidance shows up often for blackout-type curtains.
Hang them flat and open so the back layer isn’t folded onto itself while damp.
If your label allows tumble dry, keep it truly low and don’t overdo it
Some manufacturers and professional fabric-care guidance warn that coated blackout linings can have temperature sensitivity and can even stick to themselves when damp if handled poorly.
If you do tumble dry (label-permitted only), pull them out slightly damp and hang to finish.
Rehang and De-Wrinkle Without Cooking the Back
Rehanging while slightly damp is the easiest way to let gravity smooth wrinkles.
If you need to iron:
- Iron the fabric side only.
- Avoid pressing directly on a coated blackout backing unless the label explicitly allows it.
How Often Should You Wash Blackout Curtains?
Most people wait too long, then try to “deep clean” aggressively—which is exactly how linings get destroyed.
A practical schedule for US homes:
- Vacuum monthly (more if you have pets or allergies).
- Wash every 3–6 months in most rooms; kitchens often need every 2–3 months because grease and cooking odors cling to fabric.
- If someone smokes indoors or you’re in a coastal area, cleaning may need to happen more often.
Also: Americans spend a lot of time indoors, so cleaning dust-trapping textiles isn’t just aesthetic—it can matter for comfort, allergies, and “why does this room smell stale?” vibes.
Troubleshooting: If Something Already Went Wrong
The backing is peeling, cracking, or flaking
Stop machine washing and skip the dryer. That’s usually coating failure, and more agitation makes it worse.
The backing looks bubbled or separated
Heat and aggressive spin are common culprits. Air dry flat/open and don’t try to “fix” it with more heat.
They shrank and now float above the floor
Some products even warn shrinkage can happen. If your curtains are hemmed to a perfect length, this is why I prefer air drying whenever possible.
They feel stiff after washing
That’s often detergent residue. Rinse again (gentle, no detergent) and let them air dry fully open.
The Fast Recap (Do This / Don’t Do This)
Do
- Follow the care label even if it’s inconvenient.
- Vacuum first to remove dust before washing.
- Use cold water, gentle cycle, mild detergent.
- Air dry when there’s any doubt.
Don’t
- Use hot water “to get them cleaner.”
- Scrub coated backing like you’re cleaning tile.
- Fold coated sides together while damp.
- Assume every blackout curtain can be treated the same (they can’t).
Final Word: Your Product Instructions Win
Different blackout curtain types—and different brands—can have totally different washing limits. Some are machine washable, some forbid the dryer, and some really do belong at a cleaner.
So use this guide as the safe baseline, but treat the care label (and any manufacturer notes on the product page) as the final answer for your exact curtain.
